Depending on your pipe size, you may need to add an inch or more to the digging depth to account for the bottom of your pipes. You can easily measure the diameter of your pipe with a ruler or tape measure. Keep everything as level as you can; use a leveling tool if you have to in order to approximate evenness.
Use a smaller tool or your hands to sculpt the trench if necessary. In addition, save all the dirt that you displace when digging the trench. You can go further than the recommended inches if you live in an area which typically becomes freezing during winter months, or if you are otherwise at risk of a cold snap during other seasons.
In addition, inches of depth is usually far enough to save your pipes from any shovel damage. All of these depths are good for allowing optimal soil integrity and grass growth, as well. The pipes will be far enough down to not disturb any grass seeds or other small flowers that might take root in your yard. Anything shallower than 8 inches or so runs the risk of becoming damaged during winter or compromising your soil and preventing grass from growing properly.
Most standard PVC pipes used for sprinkler systems have diameters between 1. This is perfect for the above general depths that we recommended. When it comes to your sprinkler system and choosing between sizes, keep in mind that the diameter effects the overall water flow of your sprinkler system.
This means that, in general, larger yards will require deeper trenches as a result of their needing wider pipes. By contrast, smaller yards will need shallower trenches since their pipes will also be smaller. You can even choose sprinkler types specifically for their depth if you have a yard in a cold climate that requires deep digging. There are two basic kinds of sprinklers: pop-up and stationary. Stationary sprinklers are always above ground and remain where they are all the time.
These have several great advantages. Some pop-up sprinklers can only reach to 8 or 9 inches below the ground, while others can go all the way to No one type is better than the other; the key is making sure that you match your chosen sprinkler head with the depth of your trench. Pop-up sprinklers typically rely on riser attachments to accomplish their unique sheltering method and rise to water your lawn at the same time.
Digging as deep as we recommend might be difficult depending on the thickness and toughness of your lawn or ground. Some ground is so hard that digging through it with a normal shovel might seem impossible. For small projects, standard shovels will work fine. Some you can even control with an app on your smart phone.
And the sprinkler components are affordable, readily available, and easier than ever to assemble. If you want to know how to install your own sprinkler system, though, here are the basics to know. It's important to first determine the water pressure at an outdoor faucet, using a simple pressure gauge.
Send the water pressure information to the sprinkler manufacturer you have chosen, along with a sketch of your property, including all critical dimensions. The system layout they provided divided our lawn into zones, each controlled by a zone valve. In this case, to ensure total coverage, there were eight zones and 48 sprinkler heads.
In warmer climates, you can use PVC pipe to supply water to the sprinkler heads. Here, we used polyethylene pipe, which is more flexible and able to withstand freeze-thaw cycles. Consult the local building department to see if you need a building permit to install a sprinkler system. The hardest part of installing a DIY sprinkler system is laying all the underground water-supply piping.
That is, if you dig the trenches by hand. We also bought some self-tapping saddles , which provide the quickest way to tap into the polyethylene piping without having to cut or drill the pipe. Just push the saddle down onto the pipe at each sprinkler head location, then twist the handle to puncture the piping, so water can flow to the sprinkler.
A standard, surface-level backflow preventer will work, but it must be placed 12 in. Here, we installed a reduced-pressure backflow preventer and installed it in the basement where the system will be drained each winter. If digging the trenches by hand, dig the main water-supply lines first, followed by the shorter branch lines. The trenches should be at least 6 in.
If you've rented a pipe puller, begin by attaching the end of the polyethylene piping to the machine's blade. When running a main line, it's best to wrap the low-voltage electrical cable around the pipe and pull both at the same time.
With the piping connected, start the machine moving forward and lower the blade into the ground. Next, drill through your home's rim joist, and run copper pipe and electrical cable through the hole and to the ground. Make the conversion from copper to PVC at ground level with a threaded connector. Run the main PVC line, along with the cable, to the first zone-valve location. Assemble the zone valve above ground, and then cement them to the underground piping.
Install a plastic, inline drain fitting on the downstream side of each valve and connect the cable wires. Our cable had 10 wires and each zone valve had two lead wires. Connect one of each pair of valve lead wires to the white common wire, which will service all of the valves.
Join a different color-coded wire to the other lead of each zone valve. Continue making connections in this way until you've reached the last valve. With all the valves connected and wired, install the valve boxes and then backfill the trenches. The feed line needs a drain installed at its lowest point. Thread a brass drain fitting into the threaded end of a PVC tee and install the tee downward at 45 degrees.
Dig a small depression under the drain, and fill it with sand and gravel. Start the pipe puller moving forward and settle the blade into the turf. The blade will shimmy the pipe down into the ground.
Assemble the zone valves above ground, then connect them to the underground pipes. Install a drain fitting to each valve. Attach one of every valve's lead wires to the white common wire and connect a colored wire to each remaining lead.
Install a brass drain valve at each low spot of the feed line. Thread the valve into the tee with Teflon tape. To tunnel under walkways, attach a pointed sluice nozzle to a length of PVC pipe.
Connect a hose fitting to the opposite end of the pipe, then dig shallow trenches on either side of the walkway. Connect a garden hose to the pipe, turn the water on high and push the nozzle under the walkway to blast a hole clear through to the other side. Use a sluice pipe to tunnel under sidewalks.
The brass fitting is sold at hardware stores and home centers. Polyethylene pipe is joined together with barb fittings, which can be secured with common hose clamps, but stainless steel crimp rings are easier to install. Sever the pipe with a scissors-style tubing cutter , then slide the rings onto the pipe and crimp each one with pliers.
Use a scissors-type tubing cutter to slice polyethylene pipe. It's quick and easy to use, and leaves a clean edge. Slide the crimp ring onto each pipe and insert the barb fitting. Slide a crimp ring onto each pipe and insert the barb fitting.
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