But not the Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro as Nikon took a simpler approach and added a matte over the 24mm x 36mm image to show the cropped image. This results in a smaller viewfinder in which only the cropped center is shown. In these early days, DSLRs were very expensive and the only people buying them were early adopters who understood the idea of a crop sensor, and could shoot photography with lenses that would produce a different focal length than on a film camera, and with viewfinders that were smaller than they were used to.
Early adopters are typically more forgiving than the general consumer and it was clear that if DSLRs were to reach wide spread acceptance, these compromises had to be eliminated. Nikon, Canon, and other companies worked quickly to release crop sensor lenses which could be used on these cameras at their correct focal lengths, but in the idea that simply making a full frame digital sensor was a better alternative to the crop problem. Not only would a full frame digital sensor solve the crop problem, but the increase in physical size of the sensor would mean that it could have more pixels and therefore make higher resolution images.
Without getting into a pointless debate about which is better between full frame and crop sensor digital cameras, my opinion is that image quality is not enough of a deciding factor to make up for the price difference. The larger battery compartment grafted on the bottom is like a permanently attached accessory motor drive.
There is even an auxiliary shutter release on the bottom corner for use when holding the camera vertically. Also included on mine is a large, padded wrist strap that comfortably wraps around your right wrist allowing you to securely hold the camera one handed.
The experience of using the camera is surprisingly modern. Other than the increased size, I felt right at home compared to my old D The shutter release and power switch are in a comfortable position above the right hand grip. There are both front and rear control dials for controlling various functions of the camera. Beneath it is the drive mode selector for single or continuous shots plus a self-timer. The back of the camera has a variety of physical buttons for controlling the various modes of the 2.
To the left of the eye piece are buttons for bracketing and flash control. The viewfinder has an adjustable diopter that helps people with poor vision see through the viewfinder easier. Lastly, there is a control button and switch which allows you to set the AE or AF lock. IEEE ports were used for faster file transfers, but is a technology not often found on modern day computers. Beneath all of this is the opening for the proprietary lithium ion battery pack. Kodak had a long history of developing digital cameras around Nikon film SLRs and this proved to be a wise decision as it allowed them to focus entirely on the digital parts of the camera without having to design their own lens mount and lens system.
By partnering with Nikon, their cameras had a Nikon F-mount which is still one of the most widely supported lens mounts with lenses available in nearly every focal length imaginable.
A side benefit to using a full frame digital sensor was there was no issue with a cropped viewfinder like on the Fujifilm Finepix S1 Pro. The viewfinder is large and bright and has a green LED display with all of the standard information that would have been there in the Nikon N80 and any other s Nikon film or digital SLR. Like the Fuji however, there are still three LCD screens, one on top for basic exposure information, a 2. I will say that for basic functions like changing ISO and image resolution, the menu system is pretty straightforward.
Although swapping cards added an extra step in transferring images, it eliminated any software issues that sometimes plague early digital cameras with modern PCs. Once I had the card connected to my Windows 10 computer, it showed up as a removable drive and I could simply copy and paste the images to my hard drive.
In , you would have had to use a Kodak program called Photo Desk to edit them, but I was able to open them in Camera Raw and edit them like I would any RAW image so software compatibility should not be a problem for anyone using this camera today. The challenge though is that with the expectation of a modern DSLR to deliver digital-quality shots it can be difficult to find the right types of shots that accurately show off what the camera could do.
Thankfully after purchasing the camera, I was able to locate a seller that had three of them. Depending on my usage of the LCD, I found that I could safely get about 50 shots from a battery before the low power indicator turned on.
I mainly stuck to outdoor shots with the ISO set to Since shooting at any ISO lower than requires extremely long shutter speeds, I had to mount the camera to a tripod, limiting my flexibility. Sharpness and detail in the images is impressive, especially so considering this is a 16 year old digital camera. Cameras without these anti-aliasing filters are said to produce sharper images which combined with the Many professional photographers used these cameras successfully without worrying about how well they were built.
Some of the more accurate criticisms are in how long it takes for the camera to power on. A similar delay occurs when turning the camera off where the monochrome LCD stays illuminated for a good 10 seconds suggesting that the Nikon power switch does not directly control power to the Kodak parts, merely acting as some sort of shutdown trigger. Looking at the images above, digital noise is hardly present, even in the indoor scenes.
The shots of the flowers were taken during sunset when there was still a decent amount of ambient light and the shots of the school were taken over and hour after sunset with the sky nearly black. With the camera stabilized on a tripod, it could use as slow of a shutter speed as it needed since the point of this test is to show the effects of noise at the indicated ISO. The noise is much more visible in the school pics where a slower shutter speed was used.
In the image to the right, you can see all possible combinations of shutter speed and ISO. It is not possible to select an ISO 6 using a fast shutter speed. You must also have the camera set in either Shutter Priority or full Manual exposure modes. Any concerns about noisy images are completely gone at these slower speeds as all of them, even the ISO 50 shot look great. This clearly is a studio camera that benefits from stabilization and slower speeds. On a large computer monitor with the images scaled to fit the screen, the differences between the different speeds are hard to spot.
The four Low ISO shots look significantly better than the four fastest ones. ISO 50 has a pleasing grain, almost like a film emulation mode that you might see on a modern digital camera. ISOs 12 and 25 are extremely smooth with only a the subtlest hints of grain, and ISO 6 is so smooth, it almost looks like a 3D generated model.
The surfaces are so smooth, when I saved these files as JPGs, even though I chose high quality in Photoshop, it compressed the hell out of the file because there was almost no difference between pixels of similar surfaces. ISO is the only one where I can say the grain is pleasing. Even as early as do we start to see some color artifacts in the detail areas. I definitely appreciated using my Nikkor AF lenses on a digital camera without a crop factor.
The problem was with consistency. I also noted that the Kodak sensor clearly has a different color balance than I am used to. Having three LCD screens might have been acceptable in the s or very early s when the first hybrid DSLRs were being produced, but by , I think photographers should have expected more.
The low ISO settings are very cool and something I wish more modern digital cameras supported. Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro When did Kodak make that? Thanks Mike! The austhor just did not bnother to learn how to get the best of it deep enough. Start with DPReview forum for Kodak DSLR — you can easily see there what that camera is capable of as well as get the firmware information and other references including how to deal with uneven sensor colour so called italian flag problem.
The camera has most of the modern conveniences of DSLRs today and generally good ergonomics, but it is large and heavy. This is the very first digital camera, created by Steve Sasson while working for Kodak in The Sony Mavica prototype from was a still video camera that took video images and stored them on a magnetic drive.
Only one was ever made, and has never been seen after it was delivered. The Kodak Ecam prototype from was the first digital camera that somewhat resembled a modern digital camera. The Nikon DCS was more than just a camera, it required an external data storage unit, external power supplies, and a whole host of cables and accessories to work. The Contax N Digital was the very first digital camera with a full frame sensor. One of the primary benefits of using a Nikon film SLR for the basis of a digital camera is that it is compatible with Nikon F-mount lenses.
Loading a Job Tracker File from a Card Selecting a Language Resetting Defaults User Setups Creating a New User Setup Saved Setups Loading a Setup from a Card Saving a Setup to a Card Deleting Setups from Camera Memory Selecting a User Setup Editing an Existing Setup Using Setups on More than One Camera Time and Date Using the Vertical Release Changing Intervalometer Settings Long Exposure Two-Button Reset Drive Mode Locking Exposure Settings Using the Self Timer Cancelling the Self Timer Lens Optimization Selecting the Method of Lens Optimization Select a Lens from the User List When you Change Lenses Maintaining the User List Adding Lenses from the Master List Removing Lenses from the User List Saving a List Loading a List Defining New Lenses Defining New Fixed Lenses Defining New Zoom Lenses Deleting Defined Lenses Editing the Lens Name Changing the Strength Determining the Optimum Strength Resetting to Defaults Memory Cards Inserting Cards Removing Cards File Types Choosing the File Type to be Written to a Card File Type and ISO Formatting Cards Recovering Deleted Files Determining Write Speed Folders for Captured Images Selecting a Capture Folder Creating a New Folder Image Files Setting the Crop Aspect Ratio Correcting Digital Exposure Exposure Bias Noise Reduction Sharpening Level Preset White Balance Click Balance Using the Current Image for Click Balance Displaying the Saved Settings Menu Using a Saved Setting Saving a Setting on the Camera Loading Settings from a Card Deleting Settings Exposure Metering Systems Choosing a Metering System Center-Weighted Metering Spot Metering Capturing Images in Each Exposure Mode Programmed Auto Exposure Mode Shutter-Priority Auto Exposure Mode Aperture-Priority Auto Exposure Mode Manual Exposure Mode Auto Exposure Lock Exposure Compensation Cancelling Exposure Compensation Auto Exposure Bracketing Cancelling Auto Exposure Bracketing Bulb Mode Exposure Focus Modes Choosing a Focus Mode AF Area Mode Choosing an AF Area Mode Choosing a Focus Area Operations and Suitable Situations AF-Assist Illuminator Locking Focus Manual Focus Using the Electronic Rangefinder for Manual Focus Depth of Field and Focus Tracking Depth of Field Focus Tracking Capture Workflow when the Camera is not Connected to a Computer Device and Media Preparation Capturing and Evaluating Test Images Capturing Images Occasional Verification Transferring Images Editing Images Capture Workflow when the Camera is Connected to a Computer Connecting to a Computer and Power Supply Starting the Capture Software Built-in Speedlight Using the Built-in Speedlight Usable Lenses with the Built-in Speedlight Flash Sync Modes Flash Sync Modes for Optional Speedlights Flash Exposure Compensation Using Optional Speedlights Notes for Using an Optional Speedlight Reviewing Images Selecting an Image Mode Single-Image Mode Histogram Mode Interpreting a Histogram Zoom Mode Enabling or Disabling the Region of Interest Box Multiple Image Mode Status Bar Selecting a Review Folder Browsing Through Images Location Bar Selecting an Image Overexposure Indicator Changing Display Contrast and Brightness Auto Review Slide Show Deleting Images Tagging Images Recording Sound Files Advantages to a Card Reader Connecting Your Camera to the Computer Quitting—Disconnecting from the Computer Using the Card Reader The Imager Determining if the Imager is Dirty Examining a Test Image Inspecting and Cleaning the Imager Serial Data Collection Connecting a Device to the Serial Port Serial In Mode Serial In Status Serial Out Mode Setting the Baud Rate Global Positioning System Using the GPS Feature Burst Depth Compatible Lenses and Lens Accessories Incompatible Lenses and Lens Accessories Other Problems Warranty Repair Coverage Outside the United States Warranty is Not Transferable How to Obtain Service Product Support Options This portable camera system, which combines technologies of Eastman Kodak Company and NIKON Corporation, allows you to capture and store high-resolution, high-quality digital images.
Before you start using the camera, follow the instructions listed below. See below. Refer to the following Web site for system requirements: www. So that we may better serve your support needs, please register your camera in one of two ways listed below. Your registration enables you to download camera firmware, software updates, and technical information for your camera. Connecting incorrectly can damage your camera or computer.
At the computer connection, the point on the 6-pin plug must align with the point on the computer port. If a card is dropped, all data on the card can be lost. The blinking indicates that data is being read from or written to the card. You may lose data if you remove a card at this time.
Do not plug other adapters into the camera. Read Instructions— Read all the safety and operating instructions before operating your camera. Follow Instructions— Follow all operating and usage instructions. Controls— Adjust only those controls that are covered by the operating instructions. Heed Warnings— Heed all warnings on your camera and in the operating instructions.
Retain Instructions and Packaging— Retain the safety and operating instructions for future reference. Retain the packing case for use if your camera needs to be shipped. Handling— Handle your camera with care. Treat the imager as you would your best lens. Do not drop your camera. Do not place your camera on an unstable surface.
It can fall, causing serious injury to persons and serious damage to your camera. Dust— If you operate the camera in environments with excessive dust levels, dust may accumulate on the camera. Water and Moisture— Do not use the camera in dripping or splashing water or near salt spray, and do not immerse your camera in water or other liquids. Disposal— This digital camera contains lead. Disposal of lead may be regulated due to environmental considerations.
For disposal or recycling information, please contact your local authorities or, in the U. Object or Liquid Entry— Never push foreign objects of any kind into your camera openings. The objects could touch dangerous voltage points or short out parts and cause a fire or electric shock. Never spill liquid of any kind on your camera. Attachments— Do not use attachments that are not recommended.
The use of such attachments may cause hazards and serious damage to your camera. Overloading— Do not overload power outlets and extension cords; this can result in a risk of fire or electrical shock.
Power-Cord Protections— Route power-supply and other cords so that you are not likely to walk on them or pinch them with items placed on or against them. Pay particular attention to cords at plugs, receptacles, and the point where they leave your camera. Memory cards— Memory cards not supplied with the camera are fragile devices that can be damaged if not treated with care.
See the documentation accompanying any card you obtain to ensure that you are handling it as specified, and that you are using the card within its operating ranges for temperature, humidity, condensation, etc. If condensation occurs, added time may be required to read from or write to a memory card. Memory cards may have more restrictive humidity ranges. See the specifications accompanying your memory cards. Temperature— Do not expose the camera and batteries to excessive heat such as sunshine or fire.
Servicing— Do not attempt to service your camera yourself. Opening or removing covers may expose you to dangerous voltage or other hazards and void the warranty. Damage Requiring Service— Unplug your camera from the wall outlet and computer, and refer all servicing to the manufacturer under the following conditions:.
While it is designed to tolerate a reasonable amount of moisture, your camera is not waterproof. Disassembling the Camera— Never attempt to take the camera apart. The camera is shipped as a single unit. These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference in a residential installation. This equipment generates, uses and can radiate radio energy and, if not installed and used in accordance with the instructions, may cause harmful interference to radio communications.
However, there is no guarantee that interference will not occur in a particular installation. If this equipment does cause harmful interference to radio or television reception, which can be determined by turning the equipment off and on, the user is encouraged to try to correct the interference by one or more of the following measures:. If this is used near a radio or television receiver in a domestic environment, it may cause radio interference.
Install and use the equipment according to the instruction manual. Exposure Mode dial. PC Sync terminal Lens Release button. Remote Release. Flash Lock Release button. Camera Strap eyelet. Exposure Mode dial Drive Mode selector. Viewfinder eyepiece. Cancel button. Four-way switch. Flash Exposure. Top Status LCD. Video Output port. CF Eject button. CF Card slot. Card Busy LED. Connect your camera to a power source see page before turning it on. OK button. Delete button.
Four-way switch lock. Locking and Unlocking the The Four-way switch does not work if the Four-way switch lock is on. There Four-way Switch may be occasions where you want it locked to prevent changing certain. Rotate it to the left to unlock. These pixels, few in number, do not affect the quality of the captured image. Furthermore, they do not affect the evaluation of a scene, the exposure or color of the image, or the control of the camera.
You are able to fully utilize all the camera features and performance in this instance. In Basic mode see page only some of the information appears. Enable All - The buttons on the left and the OK button on the right. OK only - The buttons on the left are disabled and cannot turn on the.
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