I haven't done most of these swaps either, a lot of my information came from people on-line and from books YMMV. Generally, when swapping transmissions, it is best to match the engine with the transmission. The reason being, input shaft alignment with the clutch is crucial for clutch life and performance. Alignment can best be maintained with a OEM bell housing that has the proper input bearing retainer size and input shaft length.
Since many Jeeps use the same Borg-Warner transmissions used in Ford vehicles, Ford transmissions generally work better with Jeeps. Quality after market bell housings exist to mate different engines with different transmissions, but they add to the cost and complexity of the conversion. An overview of the engines used in Jeeps will get the transmission conversion ball rolling.
Even the engine side of the bellhousing is unique, so there are no junk yard bell housings to keep the cost of a swap down. Since a special bell housing must be used, there is no cost advantage of choosing one transmission over another. Last edited: Oct 28, Click to expand SirDoopYJ said:. On DeadJeep. Some one told me to do a slip yoke eliminator while I am at it.
For the Neutral Safety Switch I saw a thread where someone did a conversion in there 4. Should I do this or buy the manual PCM instead? I do not mind spending the money. Good to know it is a good price. It seems used the transmission is to bucks and rebuild used is about 1, to 1, bucks. I am sure deadjeep.
He said if he was going to swap he wantes to do it right. I am not sure what that means and he never responded after that. So that's the thing, I don't know the differences between the auto and manual PCMs. I don't know if there is any timing curve differences or anything to help the engine have a bit more power for the auto.
I know the PCMs lock the torque converter on autos and light the upshift light on manuals out of the same circuit. So I believe either PCM can operate with either transmission just fine. I do not know if running an auto PCM on a manual might cause code 37 to pop up which is related to the torque converter not being locked up.
I would doubt it because it uses the speed sensor input and compares it to RPM to know if the torque converter is slipping. On a manual the clutch doesn't slip so I'd imagine it won't light the code. So my best guess is the auto PCM would still work. Good info for the forums, and you could always keep the other as a spare if it works, because they are getting hard to come by. The harnesses between manual and auto are the same up until they get to the transmission.
The starter relay is grounded by the PNP switch on autos. On manuals, there is a jumper wire feeding the starter relay ground directly into ground so that it starts no matter what. Basically the vehicle harness goes down to the trans and it's the same between all Jeeps. It terminates to a 6 pin plug and is populated by 5 wires: -keyed power for backup lights -backup light feed to tail lights -torque converter lockup wire for autos -starter relay ground -ground wire for manuals There is a jumper harness specific to your vehicle.
On autos, the auto harness plugs in. It has 4 wires. Keyed Power to the PNP switch for backup lights , and a tail light wire that feeds the backup lights. Put auto in reverse, it connects those two wires together to light up the backup lamps. Coming out of the 6 pin plug are also the starter relay ground wire which is grounded when you put the trans in neutral or park , and the torque converter lockup wire. The manual has a different jumper harness that plugs into that 6-pin.
Two wires come out of the plug and go to the manual trans backup switch keyed power and feed to the backup lamps. The other wire comes out of the manual harness and feeds right back into that ground. This grounds the starter relay on manuals. So they are grounded no matter what. If it would help, I could probably make you a harness that plugs into the manual backup switch. For the starter relay you would need to snip the ground wire and connect it to the ground wire in the 6 pin if that makes sense.
Sorry, throwing a lot at you here but I do believe I understand how it works and can help walk you through it if you have questions. I'm posting the diagrams I found in the FSM. It will make more sense than the rambling I'm doing here. So if you look below, the blue circled plug is the body side. You and I both have that plug on both manuals and autos. If you look at the second pic, it shows the difference between autos and manuals. So for me, I have that blue T22 wire which is the output from the torque converter relay.
But I don't have a relay in the plug, so nothing ever happens on that wire for me. And then you would want to snip off the PNP switch connector the 3 wire plug and run the G5 and L1 wires over to the manual trans switch. The third wire from that PNP switch plug would be the ground that you're hooking up to Z2. Let me know which of that mess doesn't make sense. I can try to clarify further. One thing you could maybe do, is ship me your auto harness, I could doctor it up to fit my Jeep, and then I could send you mine.
Some say it is stronger, some say it is weaker. It is probably the strongest of the heavy duty four speeds and it is an excellent choice if you are converting to a Chevy engine. It has a super low first that is 7. It is has a very short overall length which makes it excellent for early CJs especially with GM engines. It doesn't have granny first, but it is stouter than some other transmissions.
It has the standard AMC bolt pattern on the engine side and it has the circular bolt pattern and 23 spline output on the transfer case side. AW4 : The AW4 is a medium duty 4 speed automatic and it might make a good swap in in any Jeep with a manual transmission or 3 speed automatic.
The length of the transmission might make it difficult to swap in some Jeeps as might the electronic controls. It has been used in various GM cars and trucks over the years.
Because it is a reliable, common, and short transmission, it is probably the best automatic transmission to swap in a short Jeep such as a flat fender or CJ Because it is a reliable and common it makes a good transmission to install in a Jeep.
It makes a great transmission to swap in a Jeep because it has a low first gear and an overdrive. Powerglide : The Powerglide 2 speed automatic can make a great transmission to swap in a trail only Jeep. Saturn Overdrive : Information on the Saturn Overdrive originally produced by Warn which is a bolt on 0. Simple HTML for this page here. Jeep Rubicon Unlimited Articles and Reviews.
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